And… We’re Back
When I woke up last Monday in our bed at home, I questioned whether we had actually just returned from Cuba, or if it had all been a dream. Sadly, our vacation has come and gone, but on the plus side, we had an absolutely wonderful time!
Everything was wonderful. Before heading down, Neal and I had made the mistake of looking on Trip Advisor to read recent reviews about our resort, only to see - to our dismay - that it was suddenly getting an influx of negative reviews. Most alarming were the reports of a sewage-type smell. At first, we figured that something must have happened to the resort’s sewage line, and hoped that as there was still almost a month before we were heading down, the problem would be fixed by the time we got there. Then people started speculating that the smell might actually be from a natural gas refinery that is relatively close to the resort.
But there was really nothing to be done, and as some reviewers seemed to think the smell was creeping into the rooms through the bathroom vent, we figured that if worse came to worse, we would simply stuff some towels in the vent or something.
As it turned out, though, either it was a problem that was subsequently fixed, or the reviewers are crazy.
Similarly, EVERYONE I know who has gone down to Cuba (and loved it) warned me that the food isn’t the best there and is, in fact, quite bland. I can’t say that Neal and I were all that crazy about the breakfast selection, but we always managed to find something to eat, and lunch and supper were always good. Maybe not the best cuts of meat - but it is, after all, a buffet - but there was plenty of flavour. In fact, I really enjoyed a Cuban dish they served at lunch and supper everyday called “paelle”, which I liken to a gumbo-type dish where you throw whatever you’ve got in the fridge in. It always has rice and a sauce with spices and some kind of meat and some vegetables.
The resort was wonderful. The staff were very friendly and were very hard workers. Our room was always cleaned very well - in fact, we are only entitled to one free large bottle of water in our room. You can get as much as you want in glasses at the bars (and the water is filtered on the resorts, so it’s safe, though they don’t recommend you use the tap water in the rooms for anything other than showering and brushing your teeth), and you can buy those large bottles for two pesos. However, our cleaning lady left us a free bottle each day that she saw that ours was almost empty. I loved our cleaning lady!
The drinks were not watered down at all, the nightly entertainment was actually much better than I expected, the beach was GLORIOUS. If you need to be pampered while down south, then perhaps the Barlovento is not the best place for you. I, however, feel pampered enough by the fact that my bed was made each and every day, and I never had to clean or cook. I don’t need 24-hour room service or a butler or little chocolates left on my pillow. I much preferred our location, which was right at the beginning of the downtown strip of Varadero, unlike a lot of the more posh resorts which were way the hell out and you’d have to take a bus to come into town. Our resort was right next to a small craft market and five more minutes down the road brought you to another, larger, market. We went for a few walks, ate at a couple of small restaurants (everything is ridiculously cheap in Cuba).
Our big trip of the week was to Habana (supposedly we all spell this incorrectly when we spell it as “Havana”). We were picked up at 8:30 in the morning and only got back to the resort at two in the morning. Varadero is a little over two hours away from Habana, so we got to see a fair bit of countryside on our way.
One word of advice for any would-be travelers to Cuba: bring some toilet paper. We were fine in our room at the resort, but they did sometimes run out in the bathrooms around the resort before a cleaning person had an opportunity to replenish it, and when you leave the resort, you may have to pay for some toilet paper. Cubans get everything in rations, including toilet paper, so they are very conserve-minded. It’s just easier if you bring your own.
Another interesting tidbit: a lot of toilets off the resorts don’t have toilet seats. There was some discussion as to the proper way to use such toilets: do you squat or straddle? I chose to squat, myself, but whatever works, I guess.
Habana was awesome. The tour was a bit of a whirlwind, which was unfortunate, but when you only have a day, there’s really no way around it. We saw the Capitol building, Revolutionary Square, some old churches, the HUGE market (where the vendors are much more aggressive than those in Varadero, which is a downside, but on the plus side, they are much more willing to barter), Hemingway’s bar for writers where you can buy expensive mojitos - or you can do as we did, thanks to the advice of our tour guide, and simply take some pictures of Hemingway’s bar and then have a mojito that is just as good but half the price down the road. We were then brought to a hotel where we were given a room in which to change and freshen up (four people to a room) before having supper and then going to the Tropicana show!
It was surreal to enter the Tropicana. It’s an outdoor amphitheatre, with lush greenery and trees all around. Walking in, I could almost imagine all the big-wigs and mobsters who used to go to the Tropicana before the Cuban Revolution. The show itself was… amazing. That’s not even a powerful enough word to describe it. The music, the dancing, the costumes, the makeup… I loved the entire day in Habana, but really, I think that was the highlight of the trip.
For the rest of our time in Varadero, we managed to strike a perfect balance between lying around relaxing on the beach and sight-seeing. We took the double-decker bus all the way out to the other end of the peninsula and back to see the big posh resorts (and again, as nice as I’m sure they are, I preferred our location), we went to an ecological reserve, we saw a dolphin show where I got to pet and be kissed by a dolphin.
It was wonderful, and it went by much too quickly. Alas. And here (finally) are a bunch of pictures from our trip!

On the first leg of our trip to Cuba, from Halifax to Toronto, we got to see the sun rise.

Our hotel, the Barlovento


My sexy husband enjoying the water!

Modeling one of my new bathing suits

This picture makes me laugh whenever I see it. I really was as happy as I look!

This made me so very happy, to get towel-art! Nancy had gone to Dominican last year and was very discouraged when, regardless of tips and presents left for the cleaning lady, she didn’t get a single piece of towel art. I would have been so disappointed!

On Cuba Day, we had some entertainment at lunch time

Neal was very excited to be able to get a pina colada in a coconut!

We saw police around Varadero, but they never seemed to hassle tourists in any way. Supposedly, corruption among the police is very uncommon in Cuba

Many of the people who have cars in Cuba drive these old cars from before the Revolution.

Me at one of the Varadero markets

One day we were hot and thirsty while walking around downtown, so we stopped in at a small restaurant/bar where I had a beer and Neal had a pina colada. There was no one else sitting there when we arrived (it was fairly early, around 11 a.m.), but the band started playing for us anyway!
And some sights on the way to Habana:



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View of Habana:



Capitol building

Inside the Capitol building

Statue of the Republic of Cuba

Amazing ceiling

This is found in the lobby of the Capitol building, and is considered to be the zero starting point for all of Cuba. There used to be a real diamond inside the star, but after it was stolen and then - thankfully - recovered, it was considered imprudent to leave it there. There is now a fake diamond inside the star.

Revolutionary Square (with Che Guavara in the background)

Some of the remains from the old wall that used to surround Habana




A couple of shots from the Tropicana:


And some more shots from our excursions around Varadero:

Those are Coco-cabs which tourists can hire to go around the downtown part of Varadero. They’re basically scooters with a back seat built on that’s covered by a dome-type shelter, and that’s where the passengers sit. We were running a bit late on the day we were heading to the dolphin show, so we thought we’d find out how much it would cost for the coco cab. She first quoted us 15 pesos as it’s kind of far, but we told her that as we could take the double decker bus for 5 pesos each (and that would do us all day), we’d just take our chances with time and take the bus. She then said she’d charge 12. We still didn’t budge (this wasn’t us haggling. We were really just going to take the bus). Then she said, “Okay. The bus is 10 pesos, I’m 10 pesos. So we jumped in!

I talked to some people at work who’ve gone to Cuba several times and they refuse to go in the coco cabs because, well, they probably wouldn’t pass our safety inspections here. But we couldn’t resist! Who wants to take a boring ol’ regular cab that you can take at home? It was pretty far though, so we gave her an extra peso.
The dolphin show was really amazing!


SMOOCH!


The hike through the ecological reserve was also pretty cool.




Looking inside one of the caves

In the ’80s, a burial plot was found here in this cave with remains believed to be approximately 2000 years old.

See that big dark mound in the background? That’s a termite hill. There were tons of those in the reserve, which made Neal very excited. Me? Much less impressed.
On our last night in Cuba, we went to the Mexican a-la-carte restaurant with a couple we had met at the beginning of the trip (we were on the same flight, actually) who were from Newfoundland.

And then, waiting at the Varadero airport…

… we were very sad to go!


